Some of the links in this posts might be affiliate links. If you click on them and make a purchase, I may receive a commission at no extra cost to you. All opinions expressed are my own and entirely personal: I never recommend anything I haven’t personally tried or genuinely appreciate.
Perched on a promontory nestled between the rivers Júgar and Huécar, Cuenca’s old town is a small mediaeval gem. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996, it makes this city an unmissable destination in central Spain.
It is possible to visit Cuenca in just one day, which makes it an excellent choice for a day trip from Madrid. But if you want to explore its surroundings, with their abundant natural treasures, I recommend devoting at least a couple of days to the area.
What to see in Cuenca
Here is a walking tour of about three kilometres to visit all the most interesting monuments in Cuenca and discover the places where some of the city’s most curious legends were born.
Las Casas Colgadas (hanging houses)
Let’s start the tour from the Mirador Vistas de Cuenca viewpoint. From here, next to the former Convent of San Pablo, you can enjoy a marvellous view of the Huécar River and the city’s main attraction: the Casas Colgadas, or hanging houses. In the morning, the sunlight bathes the houses, making them particularly enchanting. Before reaching them, you must cross the Puente de San Pablo, a structure built at the beginning of the 1900s to replace the previous 16th-century bridge. The current bridge is 100 metres long and suspended 60 metres above the ground. Wherever you look, the view is breathtaking, making it a great spot for your pictures.
At the other end of the bridge, we reach the Casas Colgadas. Their name comes from the fact that part of these houses is not supported by solid ground but hangs over the void, with balconies extending above the steep walls of the Huécar River canyon. Of all those that existed in past centuries, the Casa de la Sirena and the two Casas de los Reyes have survived in excellent condition. The first records of these houses date back to the 13th century. You can therefore guess why no others remain standing today! To visit their interiors, step inside the Museo de Arte Abstratta. It’s a great Spanish abstract art museum with free entrance. It has an interesting permanent collection and part of the ancient hanging house structure still clearly visible.
Cathedral and Plaza Major
Passing in front of the Episcopal Palace, one of the very few real palaces in Cuenca, we reach Plaza Mayor, the central square of the old town. Here you’ll find numerous houses with colourful façades, the Convent of Las Petras, and the colonnaded Town Hall. “Colonnaded” in the sense that it is suspended, with both pedestrian and vehicle traffic passing right between its columns.
The main attraction of Plaza Mayor, however, can only be the Cathedral of Santa María y San Julián. The façade is imposing and, although the church features interventions from various periods, its history is ancient and the result is quite intriguing. In my opinion, it’s well worth visiting the interior even if there is an entry fee. There are countless chapels and truly a great deal to see.
Ronda Julian Romero
From Plaza Mayor, take Ronda Julián Romero, one of the two streets that climb up towards the castle. You’ll come across the Posada San José, formerly the Old College of San José, dating from the 17th century. A little further on, on the right, a small viewpoint is tucked away: the Mirador de Florencio Cañas. And immediately afterwards, in a sort of tunnel that passes beneath the houses, you’ll find the Cristo del Pasadizo, famous for one of Cuenca’s many legends, the tragic tale of the lovers Julián and Inéz. I’ll tell you about it another time, but let’s just say that the story doesn’t end well.
The castle
Of the old castle, truth be told, hardly anything remains. A few sections of partially restored wall are still standing, along with the city’s former entrance gate, the Arco Bezudo. From what was once the road leading into the city, you can enjoy an excellent view over both sides of Cuenca.
Just before reaching the castle, we find the building of the Provincial Historical Archive, which in the past served as the scary Palace of the Inquisition.
Calle San Pedro
Let’s make our way back down towards the heart of ancient Cuenca, this time taking Calle San Pedro. But before you start along this street, take a look at the arched passageway on your right (with the castle behind you). This is Calle Trabuco, which runs along a good stretch of the old town on its westernmost side and offers a lovely view over the River Júcar and its narrow valley.
The first attraction on Calle San Pedro is, of course, the Church of San Pedro, with its octagonal floor plan. The exterior, with its beautiful façade and the structure nestled against the surrounding houses, seems more interesting to me than the interior, which is white and almost modern in appearance. Since there is an fee to visit the church, maybe the ticket is not worth it. But it give you access to the tower, though, which you could climb for a nice view over the old town.
A little further along you come across the Centro de Arte, formerly the Jesuit College, and the Hotel Convento del Giraldo, once the Convent of Las Celadoras. Between these two, a covered passageway on the right leads you to the small Plaza San Nicolás. From here, if you continue along Calle San Pedro you will reach, on the left, the ruins of the old Iglesia de San Pantaleón (next to the terrace of a bar that almost seems to claim the ruins of the church as its own), and at that point you’ll have returned to Plaza Mayor.
The Hermita de nuestra Señora de las Angustias and the Cruz del Diablo
From Plaza San Nicolás, you might take advantage of a short detour for a pleasant walk and to see the location of a rather unsettling legend. Go down the steps from the square and follow the little lane that bends to the right. You won’t have to walk far before you come to a building on the left that appears abandoned. In the garden, behind an iron gate, stands the Cruz del Diablo, the focal point of the legend of a handsome young man, a beautiful yet mysterious girl and, of course, the Devil. Spoiler: the Devil always loses!
A little further on you will find the small Hermita de Nuestra Señora de las Angustias (the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sorrows). It’s tiny, with a lovely portal and, unfortunately, often closed.
From the town hall to the Mangana Tower
Returning to Plaza Mayor, we walk beneath the Town Hall to find ourselves in a rather charming little square. A few pretty houses look onto it, as does the Convent of Las Esclavas, an old building with a delightful mosaic beside its portal. Take the uphill passage next to the Convent to reach Plaza de la Merced. Aside from the fact that these little lanes are utterly adorable, I find it amusing that widening by just a couple of metres immediately turns them into squares. Plaza de la Merced, in fact, is not a crossroads but simply a small open space. In just a few square metres you’ll find the Science Museum, the Church of La Merced and the building of the Conciliar Seminary.
Continuing along Calle Santa María, we arrive at a rather curious open area. First of all, it is smoke-free! The signs encourage you not to smoke, even though you’re outdoors. In the centre rises the Torre de Mangana (Mangana Tower). There are drawings and accounts of this square-based tower dating back to the 16th century. Of the original tower, only the lowest part remains; the rest has been more recently reconstructed. The square also features a work of contemporary art, “Homenaje a la Constitución” (“Homage to the Constitution”) by Antonio López García. It is a giant cube suspended several metres above the ground. In my opinion, it’s not particularly photogenic because it doesn’t suit the surrounding architecture in the slightest. Or maybe I couldn’t find the right angle to frame it.
The square contains several information panels highlighting remnants of the medieval city. You can find ruins of the ancient Arab wall, a couple of cisterns belonging to the now-vanished mosque, niches and walls of the synagogue, and more. Another reminder of the Jewish presence in this district is the Casa de los Abulafia, on the north-east corner of the square.
Last but not least, the view. This square is built on two levels, and for that reason it offers a panorama over much of the city and the River Júcar.
Noble houses, gardens, air-raid shelters and ancient gates
To finish our tour of Cuenca, we head down towards Plaza del Carmen to visit a few more little gems. Here you’ll find one of the access points to the Tunnel Alfonso VIII, underground spaces used as air-raid shelters. Unfortunately, they are currently (spring 2025) closed to the public, but they may reopen. On the same Calle Alfonso VIII there are a couple of interesting mansions (the Casa del Corregidor and the Casa de Arostegui), but this street is particularly striking for its houses built “downwards”. If you look at the doorbells, you’ll notice that the floors are labelled as 1, 2, 3 as well as –1, –2, –3. The old town is so perched on the hillside that the second floor of one street is the –2 of the higher, parallel street! And for convenience, these buildings have entrances on both sides.
If you take the little lane next to the Church of San Felipe Neri, the very narrow Calle Caballeros, you emerge into the modern Jardín de los Poetas, with a lovely view over the city. If instead you continue along Calle Andrés de Cabrera, you reach the Puerta de San Juán, one of the ancient gates of the city. It is famous, as usual, for a legend, one of my favourites. Have you ever heard of a blind guard? Yes, a blind man checking who passes through. A brilliant idea, isn’t it? Obviously it doesn’t end well, as you can imagine!
From here we can descend towards the new town for one last stop. We pass in front of El Almudí, the former royal granary, and reach Calle de los Tintes. The name derives from the guild of textile dyers that was based in this area. This street runs alongside the River Huécar, offering a lovely walk beneath the trees, among photogenic little bridges, low colourful houses, cats and ducks relaxing in the sun, and the gentle flow of the river.
What to visit around Cuenca
Cuenca is truly lovely, small but full of character and dotted with curious little corners. I recommend exploring also its surroundings, which offer no shortage of natural and cultural attractions. Here are three suggestions that are easy to visit in a day, provided you have your own transport. Otherwise, rely on one of the many agencies, such as Civitatis, that organise these excursions in fairly standard packages.
Ciudad Encantada
One of the most popular attractions in Castilla-La Mancha is undoubtedly the Ciudad Encantada. Just 30 km from Cuenca, you can visit this park of unique and wonderfully odd rock formations. These rocks, originally submerged under the Tethys Ocean, have undergone a slow process of erosion for 90 million years. Their uneven morphology and chemical composition make some parts more resistant than others, resulting in the almost artistic shapes we see today. Observing each formation from the right angle, you will spot giant ships, human faces, animals and architectural structures.
The route is just under three kilometres long, flat, but not accessible for pushchairs or wheelchairs. For opening times and prices, consult the official Ciudad Encantada website, where you can also find a charming map of the route (in Spanish).
The Source and Waterfalls of Rio Cuervo
If you enjoy walking in nature, I recommend a short stroll along the River Cuervo. The full “official” route is about three kilometres long, but a shorter walk of just over a kilometre will take you to the main attraction: the waterfalls. This shorter path is flat and suitable for pushchairs and wheelchairs. The full route, on the other hand, includes a bit of climbing, steps and uneven terrain, but nothing excessively difficult.
You can leave your car in the car park at the start of the trail, where you’ll also find wooden and stone tables for a picnic. Just before the car park there is a bar where you can stop for food or pick up something to take with you, if you find it open!
Ventano del Diablo
A brief stop on almost any itinerary in the area, the Ventano del Diablo (“the Devil’s Window”) is a viewpoint I highly recommend. From a wide bend on the CM-2105 main road, a short access leads to a car park perched on the edge of a rather high cliff. The view over the River Júcar is nothing short of breathtaking.
Take a few minutes to scan the sky for birds of prey. As well as a couple of smaller raptors I wasn’t able to identify, an eagle twice the size of all the others swooped past my eyes more than once! In the car park you’ll also find a small souvenir shop selling handicrafts that may not be entirely unique, but are charming and reasonably priced.
Where to sleep in Cuenca
Cuenca, both the modern part and the historic centre, is full of small hotels and tourist apartments. I suggest choosing a place somewhere in between the old town and the modern area. First of all, because the historic city centre is almost entirely pedestrian, and many streets are accessible only via long stairways and very steep lanes: you need to be prepared! The second reason is that daily life in Cuenca takes place mainly at the foot of the hill, leaving the upper part of the city to tourists. Finding a supermarket or a restaurant that isn’t purely for tourists in the old town is practically impossible.
For a reasonably priced stay in an ideal location for visiting Cuenca, I recommend Posada Tintes, a small, simple and good-value hotel.
Where to eat in Cuenca
For a taste of local cuisine without too many tourists, I suggest Mesón Darling. Seating is limited, so you may have to wait your turn. But the service is quick, prices are average, the menu is limited to a few typical dishes and the quality excellent.
In the historic centre, stop at Abrasador El Secreto de la Catedral. It’s right next to the cathedral, so the prices are a bit high, but they have phenomenal meatballs! As the name suggests, they specialise in grilled meat, but they also offer a number of dishes suitable for a quick lunch.
How to move around the historic city center
The answer is simple: on foot! I admit that Cuenca is certainly not an easily accessible city. There are far too many stairs, steep streets, cobblestones and tiny pavements. But trying to wander around the historic centre by car is simply a silly idea. Of course, you can drive up and attempt to find parking, but at that point your only option will still be to walk.
There are two bus lines, numbers 1 and 2, which connect the historic centre with the rest of the city. I didn’t use them, but I saw buses passing through strategic points. You’ll find more information on timetables, routes and prices on the official Cuenca website.
where to park in Cuenca
Parking is not usually something I concern myself with, but I must admit that parking in Cuenca is a bit complicated. The medieval layout of narrow streets and houses perched on the hillside doesn’t leave much room for large car parks.
To visit the historic centre, Parking Mangana is probably the most convenient, as it is located right at the base of the old town. It’s open 24 hours and has roughly the same (expensive!) prices as the more distant car parks. In the upper part of the historic centre, the only free car park is Parking del Castillo. A little further away, but still close to the city centre, you’ll also find the Plaza de España and Princesa Zaida car parks, both open 24 hours. Prices hover around €20 per day as a maximum.
Street parking in Cuenca is almost never free. You’ll find blue ticket machines wherever it’s possible to leave your car. Good luck!
All the images in this page are owned by the author and therefore protected by copyright.
Some can be bought on Shutterstock, 123RF and Dreamtime.
Rey Rodarta
Awesome blog.
The Lady
Thank you 🙂