Tenerife: exploring the north coast

The northern coast of Tenerife is less known and frequented by tourists, who are systematically directed or drawn to the vast beaches and mass entertainment of the south of the island. The climate also does not help the popularity of the north. In fact, it offers significantly more rainy days compared to the arid southern coast, and the low clouds that cover the hills just beyond the sea are almost omnipresent. However, this does not make it any less interesting, especially from a cultural perspective, but also for a simple, relaxing getaway in a green landscape, far from the throngs of tourists.

Rich in charming villages perched on steep slopes and rocky outlets to the sea, the north of Tenerife is well worth a visit. The tour can be done, if time is limited, in just one day by car with an early start. The public bus service is not sufficient for such a day trip, so I suggest hiring a car. Cicar, a local car hire company, is my preferred choice. But you can find various other options on the DiscoverCars portal.

Puerto de la Cruz

Puerto de la Cruz is the largest and most tourist-friendly city on the entire northern coast of Tenerife. Here, there is an international atmosphere while avoiding the architectural horrors of southern Tenerife. The historic centre of Puerto de la Cruz has remained more or less intact over time. It has managed to retain the feel of a small seaside town despite the numerous hotels. Moving away from the centre, unfortunately, the buildings grow taller and increasingly anonymous. Particularly loved by expats and retired foreigners in search of a better climate, Puerto de la Cruz boasts a beautiful and long black sand beach, smaller beaches very popular with surfers, pedestrian streets and excellent seafood restaurants.

There isn’t a great deal to visit in Puerto de la Cruz. A few hours’ walk through the pedestrian area may be enough to get a feel for the place. In the city centre we find the main church (with the rather pompous name of Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Peña de Francia) in a lovely tree-lined square overlooking historic buildings. The main square, not far away, is Plaza del Charco, full of bars and restaurants. Also in the area, the small church of San Francisco is one of the most unique old churches on the island. Despite being quite small, it has a double nave and an entrance at the back of each. Heading up from the sea towards the hillside, there are some charming steps dedicated to Agatha Christie, who spent several weeks in this town in the 1920s. Aside from a few murals decorating entire facades in the town centre, I would say the most interesting attraction in Puerto de la Cruz remains the black sand beach, Playa de Martiánez.

For children, or if you are a fan of the genre, there is Loro Parque. Originally created as a park specifically dedicated to parrots, today it hosts not only numerous bird species but also many marine animals. Amongst these, the seal shows (the most entertaining), dolphin displays and orca performances stand out. To skip the queue, you can buy tickets online without any additional pre-sale charges.

La Orotava

A few kilometres from Puerto de la Cruz, we find this village perched on the mountain.

The main attraction is undoubtedly La Casa de los Balcones. It is a museum set in an ancient house built in the typically Canarian architectural style of the 17th century. The rooms showcase life on the island in past centuries, traditional clothing, and local crafts, particularly those related to textiles. The entrance ticket costs just a few euros, and booking is usually not required.

Just a short distance away is the recently renovated Municipal Palace. It is usually closed to the public, but inside there are some interesting old paintings for those who manage to find an opportunity to visit. A walk around the area may also take you to the Church of the Conception and the Church of John the Baptist. However, do keep in mind that La Orotava is on a hillside, and walking up its streets is no easy task!

Icod de los Vinos

Continuing along the coast, we reach Icod de los Vinos, a small hillside village famous mainly for a tree. The Drago Milenario is an exceptionally old specimen of dracaena, located in the middle of a small botanical garden that has been built around it. Frankly, I was not particularly impressed, but considering how many visitors it receives daily, I suppose I am the exception. If you want to skip the queue at the garden entrance, you can buy tickets for the Parque del Drago Milenario online without any additional pre-sale charges. If you are unsure about paying to see it, you can go up to the terrace right in front of the entrance and take a look at it from afar.

Next to the botanical garden is the Mariposario, a ‘zoo’ of butterflies, caterpillars (including giant ones), and tropical plants. Beyond these two attractions, Icod de los Vinos is a charming village where you can take a stroll through the narrow streets lined with old houses and terraces offering sea views.

Garachico

Garachico is a charming coastal town with a history as a major trading hub. In the early 1700s, a long volcanic eruption partially destroyed the town, and the lava reached the sea. Leaving aside the economic consequences of the event, Garachico emerged at the end of the eruption with a rather unusual sea access and brand-new natural pools. When the lava met the water, it created stunning rock pools that fill and empty with the tides. Some architectural adjustments have made Garachico’s natural pools safe to use, and today they are extremely popular with both locals and tourists. The town itself is small but very picturesque and well worth a stroll through its narrow streets and small shops.

Bajamar

The natural pools of Bajamar are just as famous as those of Garachico, though they are less scenic. They are located right next to a black sand beach, making them an appealing option for those unsure about spending the day lying on concrete. Unlike Garachico’s pools, these look more like actual swimming pools, complete with depth markers and a tiled floor. Be careful when looking out towards the sea from the rocks or the railing: on days when the sea is particularly rough, there have been cases of “rogue” waves sweeping people out to sea!

The town itself is nothing particularly special, but in searching for parking, you will inevitably end up exploring it. The (sometimes dramatic) problem with Bajamar is precisely this: parking! I highly recommend arriving early in the morning or taking a bus to get there.

Cueva del Viento

Between Icod de los Vinos and Garachico, further inland, you can visit the Cueva del Viento. It is one of the longest volcanic tunnels in the world, second only to those in Hawaii. While only a short section is accessible, the guided tour lasts over two hours. It includes a detailed explanation, transport from the visitor centre to the forest, a short walk in the woods and, finally, the entry into the cave itself. At the ticket office, helmets and headlamps are provided, which must be worn all the time inside the Cueva del Viento. Booking in advance is almost essential, as group sizes are small and tickets sell out quickly!

If you liked this post, you might be interested in:
Quick guide to Tenerife
‘Pilot whales and dolphins tour in Tenerife
Visiting Anaga Rural Park
Climbing volcano Teide, the highest point of Tenerife and Spain
Hiking in Tenerife

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