With its 100×350 metres of land, the Isola dei Pescatori (“Fishermen’s Island”), one of the three Borromean Islands, is a little gem on Lake Maggiore. You can explore it in a day, in combination with Isola Bella and Isola Madre. But for a more relaxing day, Isola dei Pescatori is also great to visit on its own, whether it’s a stroll along its narrow lanes, a dip in the lake, or a leisurely lunch.
Unique Features of Isola dei Pescatori
I’ ha’ve found some features of this island quite curious and worth sharing. Starting with its name, or rather, its names!
Isola Pescatori or Isola Superiore?
A place with two names is already appealing to me. Officially, it is called Isola Superiore. Yet it is known to everyone as Isola dei Pescatori. And if you understand some Italian, you can easily imagine why. Pescatori means “fishermen”. But more curious is the reason behind its original name, Isola Superiore, meaning “superior”. Well, is it because it’s the largest on the lake? No. Amongst the Borromean Islands, excluding the two small “emerged rocks,” it is actually the smallest! Isola Bella is twice as large, and Isola Madre is even more extensive! Could it be the highest? I checked, and the three islands have rather similar elevations. Perhaps Isola Madre rises about ten metres more than the others. But in any case, we are talking about differences that wouldn’t justify such a grandiose nickname.
So, why is it called superior? It’s not clear. Apparently, it’s due to its position. But frankly, Isola Bella is equidistant from the shore compared to Isola dei Pescatori, and it’s even closer to Stresa, which is the most important town in the area. So, nothing. I haven’t figured it out. If you have an answer, please let me know in the comments!
The inhabitants
Isola dei Pescatori is the only one of the Borromean Islands in lake Maggiore that is still inhabited all year round. Leaving aside the day-trippers, we’re still talking about only a few dozen people, with the number steadily declining. In the past, the population was mainly involved in fishing and was considerably larger. But today, the island’s inhabitants are primarily focused on tourism. With the daily influx of visitors, Isola dei Pescatori actually has more restaurants than streets to walk along. And I wonder: what do the residents do on an ordinary winter evening when all the tourists have left the island? Who knows.
The architecture
Nearly all the houses on the island have long balconies. They reminded me of the old “guard rail houses” buildings that were so common in Italian cities and villages in the last century. But here, the walkways have nothing to do with it. The ones on Isola dei Pescatori are proper balconies and were used by the fishermen to hang fish out to dry in the open air. Very practical, these islanders!
What to visit on Isola Pescatori
Considering its size (100 metres wide by 350 metres long), you can easily imagine that there aren’t too many things to visit on Isola dei Pescatori! Nevertheless, let’s see how to spend a few pleasant hours there.
The alleys and the lakefront
There are two main streets that run almost the entire length of the island, one along the “south” lakefront (facing Stresa) and another through the centre of the village. A third path, which doesn’t quite qualify as a “street,” runs along the northern coast, facing the rest of Lake Maggiore. A couple of cross passages complete the entire road structure of the island. Naturally, the streets are strictly pedestrian.
I’ve already mentioned that almost all of the commerce on Isola dei Pescatori revolves around dining. Bars, a couple of hotels, and souvenir shops selling crafts that aren’t exactly local are practically the only other businesses on the island.
Saint Vittore Church and the fishermen cemetery
The village church is proportionate to the size of the island and its population. The small porch overlooking a tiny square makes the Church of San Vittore quite a welcoming place to visit. In the 11th century, it was built as a simple chapel, only slightly larger than the current porch. However, over the centuries, it was expanded to its current size. Inside, it still preserves some frescoes from the 16th century. On the website of the Eco-Museum of Isola dei Pescatori, I found some lovely drawings that clearly explain the evolution of the Church of San Vittore, along with many photos that are more informative than mine.
Behind the church, there is a cemetery. It is said to be rather charming, with a couple of graves of local artists and three chapels belonging to important families of the island. Unfortunately, I found it closed. Perhaps I looked for the entrance on the wrong side. It seems there are actually two entrances. Check both sides!
The beach
On a hot summer’s day, a dip in the cool lake waters is just what you need! The northern tip of Fishermen’s Island is the most suitable area for sunbathing and taking a swim. Don’t imagine a proper beach, especially when the lake water level is high. However, there is enough space to lay down your towels, and the access to the lake is not too steep. There are also trees for those seeking shade and benches for relaxing.
Most of the other stretches of the coast are reserved for the docking of ferries or the fishermen’s boats. At the southern tip, there are some low rocks from which, perhaps, one could dive into the water. Since there are no waves, I don’t think they are particularly dangerous. Nonetheless, this part of the island seems decidedly less suitable for swimming.
How to reach Isola dei Pescatori
From Stresa, on the western shores of Lake Maggiore, there are dozens of boats to choose from that reach the Borromean Islands. In 15-20 minutes, any ferry will reach Isola dei Pescatori. When I arrived at Stresa’s pier, I saw a small kiosk that advertised a “non-scheduled public service.” Since it was described as public service, I assumed it would be reliable. Mistake! I would call it misleading advertising. First of all, the seller quoted a price “off the books,” which probably went half into his pocket. Then he filled me with lies, from “we’ll leave in 10 minutes” to “the last return is at 6 pm, take your time.” Last but not least, I only discovered later on that this was not the only pier in town. In fact, it is the tourist pier, but, of course, there is one for the scheduled ferry services, as well as several other docking points along the coast.
That said, I have no idea which is the best ticket office. There are various boats departing every 20-30 minutes, operated by different companies. The cost is more or less the same, to be honest. However, if you don’t want to be caught off guard, buy your ticket in advance on official websites like the Navigazione Laghi. It may not be the cheapest, but at least it has clearly listed schedules and prices! If you want to buy tickets to visit multiple islands, I can suggest these packages for Isola Pescatori + Isola Bella, or even all three of the Borromean Islands.
Accessibility to the Borromean Islands
A short final note, which also applies to the other Borromean Islands in Lake Maggiore. Although they are perfect for a family tour, even with our furry friends, these islands are not very accessible for those with mobility difficulties. Except for the aforementioned Navigazione Laghi boats, access to the tourist boats is practically impossible for wheelchairs. Moreover, the islands have dirt roads and cobblestones, as well as various steps and uneven surfaces. For this reason, I would also advise against using pushchairs and prams.
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