Alter Do Chao and the Amazon: river beaches in Brazil

posted in: Brazil | 0

Some of the links in this posts, for instance the Amazon’s ones, might be affiliate links. This means if you click on them and purchase an item, I will receive a commission at no extra cost to you. All opinions remain my own: I wouldn’t suggest you something I haven’t tried myself first or I don’t like.

Brazil is a huge country, and I certainly don’t have a complete picture of it. However, among the places I’ve visited, Alter do Chão is undoubtedly the most relaxing destination! It’s located in the north of the country, in the Amazon region, within the state of Pará.

I would describe it as a hippie village, frequented by locals and a growing number of domestic tourists. Foreign tourists are still rare, and almost no one in town speaks anything other than Portuguese. Life revolves around the beach, with the feet in the waters of the Tapajós River, a tributary of the Amazon. Nature is the main attractions, and most tourist activities take place in the magnificent Amazon rainforest and its rivers and canals.

Barca a remi  attraccata nulla riva della spiaggia Ilha do Amor ad Alter do Chao

What to do in Alter do Chao

In Alter do Chão, you can organise a variety of excursions or simply enjoy some of the most beautiful river beaches in the Amazon and bask in the warm Brazilian sun! Here’s how to spend a few days in this relaxing paradise.

Ilha do Amor, the beach of Alter do Chao

Ilha do Amor, or “Island of Love,” is a stretch of sand just off the coast of Alter do Chão, which transforms into a peninsula during the dry season. In either case, it offers a stunning praia, (“beach”), one of the most beautiful river beaches in the Amazon.

Ilha do Amor during dry season, separated from the land by only a thin canal
Ilha do Amor

To reach Ilha do Amor, simply hire one of the boatmen (the price is fixed) to ferry you across. During the dry season, however, you only need to take off your shoes and wade through the shallow, knee-high water that separates the beach from the village.

There are dozens of plastic tables and chairs already set up in the water, which you can use for free as long as you order something from the bars that manage them. I can assure you, sipping a caipirinha with your feet in the river is quite a treat! I wouldn’t particularly recommend any of the restaurants for a full meal, as the quality didn’t seem very high. On the bright side, there are plenty of street vendors passing by, selling dried fruit, ice creams, and the typical açaí, served as a frozen dessert with granola and various toppings.

An ice cream vendor strolls through the waters of Ilha do Amor beach, offering treats to bathers seated at tables by the riverbank
Icecream vendors at Ilha do Amor

The water is quite warm, and like the rest of the rivers in the Amazon, it’s far from clear. I estimated visibility at about half a metre before it becomes completely opaque. On windy days, you might encounter gentle waves and a slight current. However, since you need to walk dozens of metres to find any significant depth, I’d say there’s absolutely no danger.

Praça Central and Nossa Senhora de Saude church

Praça Central is the main square of Alter do Chão. It’s the hub of village life, set between the lakeside and shaded benches beneath the trees. As the sun sets, the square comes alive, filling with street food stalls, ice cream vendors, street sellers, and musicians. There are also plenty of bars, restaurants, and small shops that stay open late into the evening.

Overlooking the main square is the church of Nossa Senhora de Saúde (Our Lady of Health). It traces its origins to a small chapel founded by Jesuit missionaries in 1738. The interior is simple and fairly modern. Unfortunately, it’s almost always closed, but the colonial Portuguese-style façade is the most interesting feature of the building.

The facade of the Nossa Senhora de Saude church, in Praca Central, Alter do Chao
Nossa Senhora de Saude church

Punta do Tauá and Lago das Piranhas

During the dry season, after passing Ilha do Amor, you can walk two kilometres along the west-facing beach to reach Lago dos Piranhas and Punta Tauá. When the water is high, however, you can ask the local fishermen for a lift or include this stop in one of the many organised tours in the area.

From Punta Tauá, you’ll enjoy a lovely view of the river, which is particularly wide at this point. From Lago dos Piranhas (Piranha lake), where I’d strongly advise against swimming for obvious reasons, you can see the Serra Ibitira Piroca hill, the highest point in the area (125 metres). I’ll talk about it in more depth later on.

This area is uninhabited, with no bars or facilities. It’s extremely peaceful and, for that reason, quite appealing. Just make sure to bring plenty of water, as it’s always very hot!

The beach leading to Punta Tauá during the dry season
The beach leading to Punta Tauá during the dry season

Serra Ibitira Piraoca

If hiking uphill in 35 degree heat with humidity through the roof doesn’t scare you, this short excursion is perfect for you! It’s a two-kilometre walk starting from Ilha do Amor. The path is easy to follow, with only the final stretch being steep. From the top, you’re rewarded with a stunning 360 degree view of the surrounding landscape. Don’t forget to bring water, a hat, and sunscreen!

Day-trips from Alter do Chão

As in the rest of the Amazon, you can organise various excursions from Alter do Chão to explore the rainforest, the Amazon River with its tributaries, and the river beaches of northern Brazil. Most tours last a full day and cost around 220 R$ per person (approximately €35 in 2024) when booked through a local agency. If you prefer to relay on an international agency, such as Civitatis, be assure they organise all the tours in the area with small groups of tourists, though prices are naturally higher.

A classic highlight is the Meeting of the Waters. I”ve seen this effect in Manaus, where the Rio Negro meets the Amazon River. The waters of the Rio Negro are darker and denser than those of the Amazon. Due to differences in minerals, speed, and temperature, the two rivers flow side by side for several kilometres before fully merging. The result is truly striking. When passing by boat, the colour difference between the two rivers is unmistakable. Dipping your hand into the water, you can feel the temperature shift by several degrees within just a few metres! In Santarém, the Tapajós River meets the Amazon, producing a similar phenomenon to what I witnessed in Manaus.

Meeting of the waters in Manaus, Amazon
Meeting of the waters in Manaus

The Canal do Jari is one of the top attractions in the area. It’s a narrow channel not far from Alter do Chão, accessible only by water. The visit includes the famous Jardim de Vitórias-Régias, or giant water lilies. Unfortunately, the drought of 2024 caused widespread damage to these beautiful plants, but they are sure to regenerate in the future.

For those who love to unwind, a popular tour is the local beach circuit: Tapari, Matarai, Jacaré, Ponta de Pedras, and Lago das Piranhas, culminating with a stunning sunset at a west-facing beach.

For the more adventurous, a great option is a 10 kilometre hike through the rainforest near the Jamaracá community. The tour is led by a local guide, usually an indigenous person, who not only has deep knowledge of the jungle but also understands the medicinal properties of plants, knows where animals hide, and can identify countless bird calls.

A small tourist boat docked along the bank of a river channel in the Amazon
Amazon parking spot

Practicalities

Getting around, reaching the beaches, and the mysterious Uber case

Unlike the rest of Brazil, the Uber app doesn’t work in Alter do Chão. Or rather, it does, but not in the way you’d expect. When you book a car, the driver will inform you that they don’t actually use the app you’re chatting on. While you’re wondering what on earth they’re talking about, they’ll suggest you download another local app, which is identical to Uber but the prices are 25–30% higher. It’s unavoidable: no drivers accept Uber bookings, even though they’re all registered on it.

To avoid entering my credit card details into an app I didn’t know (especially using the airport’s open Wi-Fi), I chose to negotiate the fare directly with the driver and pay in cash. Needless to say, the same approach works with official taxis.

That said, the town is so small that you’ll probably end up walking most places, unless your accommodation is particularly remote. There’s a taxi stand in the main square of Alter do Chão, and your hotel will almost certainly have some useful contacts.

For reaching more distant beaches or other locations, rely on the boatmen or the tourism agencies you’ll find along the riverside. As always, your hotel will also be a good source of recommendations.

The small channel dividing Ilha do Amor from Alter do Chão during the dry season, bustling with swimmers and fishermen's boats
The strip of water separating Ilha do Amor from Alter do Chão during the dry season

Credit card and ATMs

As in the Rest of Brazil, Credit Cards Are Widely Accepted

As in the rest of Brazil, in Alter do Chão credit cards are widely accepted, including by street food sellers. The exceptions are some street vendors, but not even all of them. In any case, there’s a cash machine at the entrance of the supermarket in the main square.

Shops: souvenirs, handicraft and the supermerket

Alter do Chão has dozens of small shops selling souvenirs, handicrafts, and beach gear. The ones around the main square offer more or less the same items: swimsuits, straw hats, beach accessories and classic souvenirs. In this square, you’ll also find the largest supermarket in town there, which includes an ATM.

For more authentic handicraft shops, take the road between the supermarket and the church. On the first block, on the right-hand side, you’ll find three shops in a row. The last one, right before the intersection, is the largest, though not necessarily the most unique or affordable. Keep in mind that many “classic” souvenirs aren’t made in Brazil at all. Textiles, for instance, are often imported.

Street dogs

As in many other places in Brazil, Alter do Chão is full of street dogs. However, the concept of a “stray dog” is not the same as in Europe, at least not in small towns. These dogs sleep in the streets (sometimes literally in the middle of the pavement!) and occasionally rummage through rubbish, but they are part of the community. They’re friendly, have names, seek shade under your parasol, play with other dogs (both strays and pets), and don’t go hungry.

One of Alter do Chao river beaches in the Amazon region, Brazil
River beach in Alter do Chao

Hot to get to Alter do Chao

Alter do Chão is located 35 km from Santarém, one of the largest cities in the region. The easiest way to reach Santarém is by air. The airport is served only by Brazilian airlines (Latam, Gol, and Azul) and is very small: one arrivals hall, one for departures, and one for check-in. There are just a handful of flights per day to and from Santarém, and they all tend to be at the same time. This makes these three rooms either incredibly overcrowded or completely empty.

The alternative to flying is taking a ferry from Manaus or Belém. Naturally, travel times are longer, but the prices are significantly lower.

From Santarém to Alter do Chão, the journey takes about 30 minutes by car. Hotels in the village can arrange a pick-up at a reasonable price of around 120-130 R$ (approximately €20 in 2024). Alternatively, a multitude of “Ubers” wait to be hired just outside the airport. As I mentioned earlier about the so-called Uber, they don’t actually use the app. If you negotiate the price, aim for 100-120 R$ (€15-20 in 2024).

There is a bus line connecting Alter do Chão to Santarém, but I’ve never seen one go by. I’ve read that the tickets are extremely cheap, but I can’t vouch for how reliable they are.

Sunset on the river in the Amazon, Brazil
Sunset in the Amazon

Where to stay in Alter do Chao

The village is filled with pousadas, which are the local inns. Most of them are relatively small, family-run establishments with just a few rooms. Some have swimming pools, especially those located further from the beach. However, the most important feature is air conditioning in the rooms, as it is always extremely hot in the Amazon.

I choseCasa Mineira because it is just a few minutes on foot from both the beach and the main square. It’s a family-run pousada, reasonably priced, fairly simple but charming, and equipped with all the essentials. It has a lovely outdoor common area for breakfast and relaxation, complete with hammocks, Wi-Fi, and a garden.

Where to eat in Alter do Chao

The central square of Alter do Chão is the main culinary hub of the village. Along its sides, you’ll find about ten establishments, including bars, restaurants, and bakeries. Meanwhile, in the middle of the square, among the trees and benches, a good handful of street food stands open in the evening. You’ll have more dining options than days of holiday!

A great restaurant is Arco Iris da Amazonia. They serve traditional dishes, and the quality is excellent. Like many of its peers, it also offers a wide selection of drinks, including some beautifully presented cocktails.

As for street food, I tried a couple of stalls and I was always very satisfied. Among the best options is the classic Brazilian pastel, which I found to be double the size of what I was used to! It’s a kind of fried pastry filled with your choice of cheese, meat, chicken, or various combinations. The price is, of course, very affordable. Some stalls also sell ice creams and smoothies with intriguing flavours, such as Brazil nuts or the typical açaí, a slightly tart berry that looks like a cross between a blueberry and a grape.


All the images in this page are owned by the author and therefore protected by copyright.
Some can be bought on Shutterstock, 123RF and Dreamtime.


Pinterest Image: Alter do Chao and the river beaches in the Amazon, Brazil



Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.