It is said that there are more goats than inhabitants in Fuerteventura. I don’t know how many goats there are, but the inhabitants are definitely few! Once you leave the only highway, in fact, you hardly encounter anyone. You pass through entire villages without meeting a soul, they seem like abandoned movie sets at the end of filming. The only places full of life are the tourist towns like Corralejo and El Cotillo, and the capital Puerto del Rosario.
However, you need to be aware that in a place like Corralejo, you are not visiting the “real” Canary Islands. You are in a sort of theme park where there are more Italians (and Germans and English) than Spaniards. And even those who speak Spanish are not necessarily from the Canary Islands: almost all of them come from mainland Spain or South America.
That said, if you are looking for something different from the classic and very popular large beaches in the north full of tourists, here are five options for a (half) day out, with adventure levels ranging from normal to hard-core!
Adventure level easy for everybody: daytrip to Isla de Lobos
From Corralejo, you can’t miss a simple and quite common trip to the little island off the coast of Fuerteventura. Isla de Lobos is named after the numerous seals (lobos in Spanish) that once inhabited these 6 km² of lava terrain, now uninhabited.
The entire Isla de Lobos is a protected Natural Park and therefore the number of daily visitors is limited. It is essential to book a permit. You can find it on the island’s official website, and it can be requested for free within the 5 days prior to your visit.
I suggest you also book the ferry if you want to be sure of getting a passage at your preferred time. The “official” boats can be found on the Isla de Lobos website, and they are the cheapest option. In Corralejo harbour, however, you will find many other agencies offering transport by catamarans, motorboats, or sailboats. Some include the access permit to the island in case you haven’t managed to get it yourself. Others rent out equipment for snorkelling or other water sports. Of course, the prices are higher, but you will have more choice for departure and return times.
Once on the island, the most popular beach is Playa De La Concha De Lobos. It is long, sandy, with a wonderful crystal-clear sea. Early in the morning, it is also decently empty, but with the arrival of continuous waves of tourists, it tends to fill up as the hours pass.
Puertito Isla de Lobos is a tiny village with a rocky beach, not particularly interesting. It used to be a fishing village, and the old houses are still used by the original owners. Here you will also find a covered structure with tables and toilets, and the Chiringuito El Farero, the island’s only restaurant, which is therefore always very crowded.
Wildlife adventure: the dromedary farm
Fuerteventura, like Lanzarote, has a native breed of dromedaries. I’m not exactly an expert on these animals, but they are basically smaller than those in North Africa. They are generally used as a tourist attraction, offering short guided rides. However, I found something much less touristy and far more useful: a dromedary farm for food production. And don’t be shocked: dromedaries aren’t the food!
The Drome Milk project hosts around 400 dromedaries of a native breed that is almost at risk of extinction. The farm is located near the capital Puerto del Rosario, but despite this, it is not very easy to reach. You have to bypass a military zone by taking, once again, a dirt road. A couple of kilometres in the middle of nowhere and the farm appears in all its rustic charm.
To visit the dromedaries, it is mandatory to contact the farm in advance. The visit showcases the various groups of animals, how they are fed, the moment they are let out for a free run in the “fields”, and how they are milked… Yes, the farm aims to produce milk to sell its derivatives, such as cheese, yogurt, ice cream, and chocolate! Dromedaries yield on average 30 times less milk than a cow, so we are talking about a very special product. At the time of my visit, they were awaiting authorisation to start public sales, which I hope they receive soon!
Dromedaries are curious and sociable animals, making for excellent photographs!
Off-road adventure hard-core level: Cofete beach
Cofete is an old fishing village famous for its long, very long golden beach on the western side of the island. There is only one road to reach it and, like many others in Fuerteventura, it is unpaved. In this case, however, it is not only unpaved but also poorly maintained, about twenty kilometres long and, at times, perched on the edge of a volcanic valley with no protection whatsoever.
Playa Cofete is enormous and sandy. Even when it is crowded, the long stretch of sand is so extensive that there is always plenty of space for everyone. It faces the ocean, with no other islands nearby. So, be cautious of the waves and currents, which can become quite violent. There are no facilities or bars: bring something to eat and drink.
At the entrance to the beach, there is an open parking area. Right next to it, there is a curious fishermen’s cemetery now half-covered by sand, which is quite photogenic! In the village, a kilometre away, you will find a restaurant and little else.
The question is: is it worth driving an hour each way with very high anxiety to spend just a few hours at Cofete Beach? I’m not so sure. But there are valid alternatives. For example, a friendly public minibus with huge off-road wheels departs a couple of times a day from Morro Jable, passes by the Punta Jandia lighthouse, and reaches Playa Cofete. It may not be the best service in the world, but it saves you 10 years of life. Otherwise, rent an off-road vehicle: a big, powerful 4×4 is what you need. Whatever your means of transport, you will definitely have to wash it before returning it, as it will surely have changed colour on this road!
In the first part of the dirt road to Cofete, you will encounter goats and wild donkeys. Fuerteventura is full of these animals in the wild, but for some reason, they particularly like this southern corner of the island. They are absolutely accustomed to human presence and, if they are hungry, they will approach you. In theory, it is forbidden to feed them, but tourists tend to ignore this rule for a rustic selfie.
Culinary adventure: artisanal goat cheese
With all the goats living in Fuerteventura, goat cheese simply had to be the island’s most famous product! You can find it in all the restaurants, of course, whether in the classic fresh cheese version or in aged, spiced, or smoked varieties.
For tasty souvenirs, you can find local cheese in any supermarket, as well as cheese imported from other islands, the rest of Spain or, especially in tourist areas, from abroad. But if you want more choice of goat cheese, some slightly more original versions, or simply a lower price, you can go directly to the producers. You will need to look for a quesería, which is a cheese factory. And Fuerteventura has plenty of them.
I went to Queseria Felipa on the recommendation of locals. It is located in a small inland village, a few kilometres from the capital. Naturally, access is via the usual dirt road, and you are greeted by the unmistakable smell of the goats from the dairy. The little shop sells at least a dozen different types of home-made, incredibly fresh cheese at excellent prices. You can buy whole wheels or smaller pieces, and you can ask to have them vacuum-packed so they last a few weeks. I particularly liked the spiced ones (pepper, chilli, rosemary, etc.) and the fig cheese.
(Overrated) adventure for wild-west lovers: hiking in Barranco Encantado
I had seen spectacular photos of this canyon in Fuerteventura, with high rock walls sculpted by the wind and a long trail for a half-day of excellent hiking. Well, not quite. Let’s say the hike, as advertised, is overrated! But given the type of landscape, I would recommend it to fans of Western films. And if it could be done on horseback, it would be even more charming!
It must be said that Fuerteventura is certainly not known as a hiking destination in the Canary Islands. And for good reasons: too hot, little shade, quite flat, repetitive landscape. I’ve written extensively about the many trekking opportunities in Tenerife, but La Palma and La Gomera also have far more interesting landscapes than Fuerteventura. Nevertheless, I had read great reviews of this barranco and wanted to see it for myself.
Access to Barranco Encantado is via a dirt road, as usual. You can easily leave your car parked at the side of the trail because not many vehicles pass through here. The first kilometre is a flat, dusty path through cosmic nothingness. Boring. But after passing a faded sign reminding us not to damage the rocks with unnecessary carvings, I began to recognise the walls, or rather, the vertical wall as that marvellous canyon I had seen online. From a geological and archaeological point of view, the rocks are interesting because they are full of fossilised shells. But overall, it is much less impressive than expected. The wall is just one, so it’s not really a canyon. And it isn’t even that high. With the right angle and good lighting, the photos had definitely deceived me.
I walked about another kilometre as the trail gradually became more pleasant. In some places, you could easily shoot a Western film. I imagined the villains up there (not very high, though!), perched amongst the rocks with rifles, and the protagonists’ horses advancing slowly, unaware of the danger.
Perhaps the second rock wall finally begins at the third kilometre, but by this point, I was a bit fed up and turned back. If anyone has made it to the end, please let me know in the comments!
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